Fat Acceptance & Commentary
“Not Our Demographic”: American Apparel denies my existence
Today on Facebook, while being a bum and watching MST3K, I came across the following status update from April Flores:
Had another meeting re:clothing line this am. Went to American Apparel to see how their stuff fit. No sizes bigger than 2x. When we asked the showroom rep if they ever considered making more plus sizes she condescendingly said “That’s not our demographic.” Hmm I guess they think fat people don’t wear clothes. Their loss!
The current youth culture’s (or “hipster,” although I’m really annoyed by the ways people like to use that word against anyone in my age group) denouncement of fat people (at least in the fashion world) is not something I’m unfamiliar with. I remember the sad day in high school when I officially became “plus sized,” not as a day of “ew! I’m fat!” but as the death of my clothing options. No longer could I order clothes from Urban Outfitters or have any hope of finding something in a Los Angeles vintage or thrift store. I have recently celebrated the discovery of ASOS Curve, but for the past few years, I had worn Torrid and menswear almost exclusively.
It’s funny that youth-centric companies like American Apparel are so fascist about the size of the women they’ll cater to, but are much more permissive when it comes to their male clientele. This is where I found the loophole through which I have been supporting a company that openly discriminates against people who look like me. I wear American Apparel men’s briefs. Almost exclusively. I probably have about 20 pairs. The picture of me on the About page? I’m wearing a purple acid-washed deep V-neck from American Apparel. I have lots of their deep V-neck shirts, not to mention a pair of suspenders, some dresses that are WAY TOO SMALL and two bowties. Not your demographic? Are you fucking KIDDING me?
You know, it’s kind of pathetic that a company can be this shitty to me and still see my business. I wish I had the backbone to just say “fuck you” to American Apparel and be done with it, but I still find myself checking their website every few months with my fingers crossed, hoping to high heaven that they’ve seen the light and have started to make more things in my size. (Like these pants, maybe.) And every time, my hopes are squashed by the reality of their skinny (sometimes verging on pre-pubescent) beauty ideal. So what do I do? I pout and kick my feet and yell “It’s not fair!!” (because it fucking isn’t) and then I buy a different pair of ridiculous tight jeans from Torrid.
I am in my early 20′s. I will wear stupid pants. So will just about everyone else who is my age. Stupid pants are an important part of human development. By not catering to the enormous market of plus-sized/fat/whatever young people, American Apparel, the INDUSTRY LEADER in stupid pants (not to mention stupid shirts, stupid shorts and stupid nipple-baring leotard things) is missing out on a lot of money.
What irks me more than their hard-headed stupidity, however, is this insistence that fat people are not “part of their demographic.” What does that even mean? That fat people can’t be hipsters? Trust me, fat people are just as capable of being vapid, superficial and pretentious as any thin person. We can forgo bathing, smoke lots of cigarettes and dress like hobos. I’m verging on morbidly obese (according to the oh-so-legit BMI scale), and I had an ironic “hobos and Mormons”-themed 18th birthday party. Two percent of my ample MacBook Pro harddrive space is taken up by the entire discography and an extensive bootleg collection of Manchester indie gods the Fall. I complain on a regular basis about the negative turn country music took in the 1980′s. I dressed up as Jean-Luc Godard for French class when I was 15 years old. Pretentious and superficial? I’ve been there and back again.
Thin people simply do not have a monopoly on feelings of sub-cultural superiority. So listen up American Apparel and Urban Outfitters and Top Shop and ModCloth and the rest of your ilk, I will wear the shit out of your stupid clothes, and so will others like me. Your assumptions that fat people are too poor or stupid or uncultured or uncool to be worthy of shopping at your stores are discriminatory and unfounded. Now give us your ridiculous pants while we’re still young enough to want them.
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about 3 months ago
as a German, and as a feminist dialectician who also has a fondness for the ridiculous pants (Absurdehosenlust), I value the extreme precision of your argumentation, and invite you to visit me any time in Hamburg for a wurst and a bier. Mit freundlichem Gruss –
about 3 months ago
Wonderfully said Lillian! Love this blog entry!
about 3 months ago
This is an amazing piece of writing.
about 3 months ago
Loving this entry as well.
AA is so problematic. But I love their men’s briefs, too. If someone can direct me to an alternative to AA that also makes unisex briefs that come in billions of different colors, please tell me. Until then, I really don’t want to tell them to fuck off just yet…. I would like to add more briefs to my collection first… Hah. :/
about 3 months ago
Thank you so much for the kind comments everyone!
And jeffer, I’m so with you about the underwear. Coral briefs! They’re fantastic!
about 3 months ago
Seriously! I wear a size 4-6 dress/shirt and a size 6/8 pant. I wear the absolute largest size they have in their 4-way-stretch jeans: size 30/31. That’s incredibly offensive … and I’m quite a bit smaller than the national median. Once upon a time American Apparel represented a revolution in American consumerism. They were a politically conscience company born out the rubble of sweat-shop mania. It’s so sad. Lillian: Stay awesome! Stay smokin’ hot!
about 3 months ago
lillian you are so articulate and awesome. look forward to reading your blog more!
emily allan (remember me?)
about 3 months ago
Lillian – you are awesome. Stupid pants or not. The end.
xx – Jen
The Art of Chasing Your Dreams
http://jennifer-callahan.com/
about 3 months ago
I am reposting this article on my twitter account. I completely agree with everything you say in this entry.
about 3 months ago
lillian, just wanted to say:
i stumbled over from zeldalilly via evil beet, and those haters there were even hurting my feelings with their arrogance and bitchiness and fucking stupidity.
anyway, nice post. nice site. for real.
about 3 months ago
Thanks Emme! I really appreciate that.
about 3 months ago
of course I remember you! and thanks for being so nice.
that goes for you too marlo, jen and revo! positive feedback means a lot to me.
about 3 months ago
This is truly amazing. Can I quote and link back?
about 3 months ago
@Mimi, of course! Thank you!
about 3 months ago
I have never read this blog before, I don’t know who you are or if any of that even matters. Your blissful ignorance to how these companies actually function is impressive at least. Of course they only want certain people to wear their clothes ( its not just hipsters, the hundreds, supreme, any hipster brand has not merged with a giant capital firm and have an ipo.
If you look at fashion, all brands in the marketplace control who wears their clothes. Whether its through price, stores, availability, etc… Look at what happened to Tommy Hilfiger, a company that couldn’t control its brand direction and went spiraling in a a direction that THEY didn’t want to go.
Calling a company a bunch of idiots because you are overweight is mind blowing. Plus the fact that your still shopping there and still wearing their clothes? Really sticking to your guns.
about 3 months ago
Ryan, that’s great that you’re here for the first time! Although I would dispute your claim that you “read” my blog.
It’s blissful ignorance to express annoyance at a reality? So, if I complained about it raining outside, for example, would you berate me for not understanding the water cycle?
The company isn’t stupid because I’m fat. There’s no causal relationship. I think it’s stupid to alienate a potentially profitable demographic. And yeah, I actually address my own hypocrisy (currently wearing both a shirt and a pair of underwear from AA) in the piece. I call myself pathetic.
Please make sure to read and understand something fully before you attack it.
LOVE AND HUGS!
Lillian
about 3 months ago
lillian! found a link to this on zeldalily. read your name once, twice.. i know you! remember.. gilleman’s modern drama class first year? how’s it been?
anyway, great post and looking forward to reading more!
diana t.
about 2 months ago
American Apparel must be run by idiots. The plus size market is an overlooked goldmine. That’s what we were told in fashion school, and then the instructors would send us back to draping on size 6 dressforms. I get asked a lot if I offer plus sizes in my skirts, and I can feel the disappointment when I say I don’t. But this is all going to change – I’m excited about this but I really don’t know where to start. What do plus size women want in fashion? Skirts, dresses, jeans, cottons, knits? Any info that anyone has to offer would be greatly appreciated, or if there are websites devoted to plus size fashion that you could point me to – great.
about 2 months ago
Ashley– oh my goodness!!!! Those skirts are GORGEOUS!!!!
Plus size women represent a huge variety of people– that question is about as difficult to answer as what thin women or short women or tall women want to wear. If you want to get an idea, I’d look through the fatshionista Livejournal group and flickr pool. I think the skirts you already make would be very popular. If you want to continue the discussion, feel free to email me.
about 2 months ago
I read this post a few weeks ago when it first came out and I completely agree with you! Today I stumbled across this article and thought you might be interested. Just another reason for us to buy our super tight jeans somewhere else:
http://gawker.com/5560215/american-apparels-new-standard-no-uglies-allowed?skyline=true&s=i
about 2 months ago
Re Ashley’s skirts – I would so wear those skirts, with an elastic waist.
about 2 months ago
You are fun, fun, fun. I love the tone of this piece.
about 1 month ago
a person a million pertaining to writing this particular
about 11 hours ago
hey hey lillian –
i happened to land here on searching the phrase “i’m not your demagraphic,” something i just happened to say to a coworker who always seems to be targeting me with his entrepreneurial pipe dreams of silliness. mostly cause i wanted to see if someone had plastered that on a tshirt…
which i would want to know about cause i make tshirts. or rather, i make designs for screen printing and also do embroidery and batik on shirts and have been selling them at craft shows and online.
and you’ve hit on a pivotal issue that has repercussions all through the path of product to customer, including sellers like myself: sizing…
things have certainly improved from the seller’s perspective in that a larger amount of the population are familiar with AA being smaller than most of us are used to when you say ‘meduim’ or ‘large’. but also the cuts are different. i’ve sold a hanes unisex shirt to a smaller woman because she preferred that to a ladies OR mens/unisex AA shirt.
and then, YES, the AA the sizes only go up so far…and the result is trying to match colors to sweatshop hanes or gildan, and doubling shipping to get supplies from two sources, the lack of the latter two brands having decent ladies cuts, and all the extra pesky purchase button coding and size charts for my site (pesky!)…
i hate making excuses for AA, especially as they now teeter on bankruptcy (there are many good, good people that work there), they’re huge and i’m small, questionable advertizing, etc, but from a very high level view, the lack of larger sizes could tie to some ‘reasonable’ issues. (?)
first off: shelf space. having that many sizes of that many colors in a single store and keeping them all in stock all the time? crazy. of course now there are many AA items not available in stores at all, but they didn’t start there…
also, materials. larger shirts have more materials and creates a more complicated pricing structure if you try to compensate. yeah i know, hire a damn accountant, right?
also, and i wonder if they really thought of this or i’m just projecting, but consider the value of a limited availability. original paintings can be top dollar for the wealthy, and mass produced prints for the rest of us. the metaphor is REALLY broad, but i think you might see where i’m going. by excluding a portion of hipsters (whatever definition you’d like) the remaining portion feel even MORE hipster, like hipsterX2.
to try to sum that up, it is possible they think that by not selling a single 4XL shirt (and dealing with shelf space, and materials and pricing structure and the damn accountant’s salary), they might sell an additional medium or two (in addition to the two that were already being purchased) because the medium hipsters felt even better about being mediums…
and four mediums trumps one medium + one 4XL.
ALL THAT BEING SAID it still sucks.
or
all that being said IT STILL SUCKS.
and not to totally bogart your blog here even further, but i want to add also that it is with great mixed feelings that i provide my customers with hanes or gildan shirts of larger sizes. i love my customers, they are loyal and awesome, but i also know too much about the conditions these shirts were made in and the lives of those who make them. it breaks my heart a little every time.
BUT i think i just need to search more for a responsible US company who will do the real big (plain ts for me and making stuff at least, if not the stupid pants you crave). and that’s the onus on me to find them…they have to be out there right?
one independent guy who’s found them (i think…?), and you absolutely are going to LOVE this shirt if you don’t already have one (though i look now and the largest sizes are currently sold out) :
http://www.seibei.com/shop/iflp.html